|Latin name||Hippocampus barbouri - Jordan & Richardson, 1908|
|Local name||Barbour's seahorse|
|Family||Syngnathidae - Hippocampus|
|Max length||15 cm (5,9")|
|Minimum volume||100 cm (26 gal)|
|Suitable for aquarium||Suitable for special aquariums|
|Reef safe||Always reef safe|
Zooplankton (Cyclops, pods...)
Small crustaceans (Krill, mysis, artemia...)
This species is endangered.
This species often becomes malnourished in captivity, it is therefore important to enrich their food with omega-3 and vitamins.
Species of the Pipefish family should be kept in a dedicated tank, see the family description below.
Seahorses/Pipefishes will normally only accept live feed. Live Mysis or Artemia are particularly well suited.
Captivity bred Seahorses however, may have learned to eat frozen Mysis from the beginning and are therefore much easier to keep.
This species thrives best as a pair or in a small group.
This species can be bred in captivity, one can therefore consider asking your local fish store for a captive bred specimen.
While Pipefishes/Seahorses (Syngathidae) are fascinating because of their unique appearance and way of moving, they are definitely not suitable for all aquaria.
Its important to arrange the aquarium so the Pipefishes/Seahorses has something to latch onto with its tail. This could be kelp, macro algae or similar, but this must not include corals or anemones as these might burn the Pipefish/Seahorse.
The water current must not be too powerful, as they are not strong swimmers. Pipefish can however, handle a slightly more powerful circulation than seahorses.
One should avoid keeping seahorses together with food competitors as this will impede feeding.
Aggressive species, predatory fish, crabs, lobsters and such should be avoided too, as they will damage or eat the Seahorses.
The easiest solution is to keep them in a small aquarium, down to 40 liters is perfect for a little group, as a confined space makes it easier to control feeding.
The filter system must be able to handle frequent feeding with frozen food.
Seahorses and pipefish are not particularly sensitive towards the quality of the water, but do require, like most fish, that the aquarium is properly maintained.
If one wishes to keep pipefishes in a coral aquarium, the Flagtail Pipefish (the Doryhamphus and Dunckerocampus genus) is an option, although it can be challenging to feed them and the other fish and invertebrates in the aquarium must be chosen carefully.
Seahorses are on of the few fish bred for the aquarium trade, as well as being endangered in the wild. Luckily they are bred in captivity in multiple places. Captive bred specimens are often easier to feed, which is a big advantage.
If the fish are not captive bred, it may be necessary to feed with live food to start with.
Pipefish are not so widely bred as seahorses.
To ensure continual nourishment, add omega-3 and vitamins to their frozen food, or feed them live Artemia which themselves have received nutritious food.
Pipefish/Seahorses do not have a long life expectancy, generally 2-3 years.
|Distribution||Western Central Pacific: southern Sulu Sea. International trade is monitored through a licensing system (<b>CITES</b> II, since 5.15.04) and a minimum size of 10 cm applies.|
|English common names||
Seahorse.org - (English)
Henry C. Schultz. 2003. There's More to Pipes Than Just PVC: The Genus Doryrhamphus and Other Pipefish - Reefkeeping Magazine - (English)
Scott W. Michael. 2001. Reef Fishes volume 1 - TFH Publications / Microcosm Ltd. - (English)
Beth Panocha. 2004. Aquarium Fish: Seahorse Care: A Basic Guide To Starting Your First Herd - Advanced Aquarist - (English)
Pete Giwojna. 2007. A Seahorse Reef Part 1: Reef Compatibility of Hippocampus spp. - Tropical Fish Hobbyist - (English)
Pete Giwojna. 2007. A Seahorse Reef, Part Two: Choosing Your Seahorses - Tropical Fish Hobbyist - (English)
"Minimum volume" indicates the size of the tank needed to house this species under optimal conditions.
This is based on a medium size animal, which you want to keep for several years.
It might be possible to keep smaller specimens for a limited period in a smaller tank. A larger tank might be needed for fully-grown specimens.
"Hardiness" indicates how resistant this species is to disease and how well i tolerates bad conditions in general.
Some species doesn't handle transportation very well, but that doesn't mean that the species isn't hardy under the right conditions.
In this case, a "normal" aquarium is a reef aquarium with mixed corals or a fish only aquarium with an approximately salinity of 1.026 (sg) and a temperature close to 26°C.
Species requiring more than a 4000-liter tank are considered not suitable for home aquarium.
Special aquariums may cover tanks with low salinity, sub-tropical temperature, deep sand bed, sea grass etc.
Always reef safe: No sources indicate that this species will harm corals or other invertebrates.
Often reef safe: Only a few aquarists has reported problems keeping this species with corals and other invertebrates.
Reef safe with caution: This species may be a threat to some types of invertebrates.
Reef safe with luck: Most specimens will harm corals and/or other invertebrates, but you might be lucky.
Not reef safe: This species is a threat to most corals and/or other invertebrates.