|Latin name||Stethojulis bandanensis - (Bleeker, 1851)|
|Local name||Red shoulder wrasse|
|Family||Labridae - Stethojulis|
|Origin||East Indian Ocean, Australia, Indonesia, Central/West Pacific|
|Max length||15 cm (5,9")|
|Minimum volume||1000 cm (264 gal)|
|Suitable for aquarium||Experience, preparation and extra care required|
|Reef safe||Always reef safe|
|Aggressiveness||Mostly peaceful but might be aggressive towards similar species|
Zooplankton (Cyclops, pods...)
Small crustaceans (Krill, mysis, artemia...)
This species is known to jump out of open aquaria.
This species requires a constant supply of food in the water.
This species must be fed with an appropriately varied diet.
This species is very sensitive during transportation and acclimatizing into the aquarium.
This species needs a minimum of 2 inch (5 cm) of sand in the aquarium bottom, so it can dig itself down when afraid or needing to sleep.
This species thrives best when there is a sufficiently large amount of micro life (copepods, amphipods or similar) in the aquarium, so that the it can always find their own food.
They can live as a pair provided they are introduced simultaneously.
This species needs good hiding places, for example, between live rocks.
This species revels in swimming and requires an aquarium with ample space.
This species is very shy and docile, so one should be careful when keeping it with more aggressive fish.
This species can change gender from female to male.
When a male is needed, a female changes sex and takes on the role.
Stethojulis are very beautiful when in full colour, but when young their colouring is more matte. Most require almost constant feeding if they are to survive in an aquarium for any length of time. Their frequent feeding is required because of their constant activity, this also means they must be provided with ample space for swimming.
When one has an very large tank with plenty of zooplankton and hiding places, then the chances of success are good. Without available natural food it is essential to have an automatic feeders to provide regular, daily food of a varied nature.
These fish eat most of types of frozen foods like, i.e. Mysis, Artemia and cyclops. They can be a threat to small invertebrates like snails and shrimps.
They must not be kept with aggressive fish, as this will make their acclimatization problematic.
When feeling threatened or needing sleep, they dig themselves into the sand.
Wrasses are nearly always seen in reef aquaria, since many of the species are both attractive and useful in battling a range of unwanted invertebrates like i.e. flatworms, pyramide snails.
These fish live of everything from zooplankton to large crustaceans, sea urchins and the like.
The needs and behaviour of Wrasses vary greatly, so it is vital to familiarize oneself with the specific species before buying one.
|Distribution||Indo-Pacific: eastern Indian Ocean to western Australia, including the Christmas Island, Cocos-Keeling and the Andaman Sea; then from Japan to New South Wales, Australia. Eastern Pacific: offshore islands in the eastern Pacific, including Clipperton, Co|
|English common names||
Red shoulder wrasse
Bob Fenner. The Spastic Wrasses of the Genus Stethojulis - Wet Web Media - (English)
Scott W. Michael. 2009. Wrasses and Parrotfishes (Reef Fishes Series Book 5) - TFH Publications / Microcosm Ltd. - (English)
"Minimum volume" indicates the size of the tank needed to house this species under optimal conditions.
This is based on a medium size animal, which you want to keep for several years.
It might be possible to keep smaller specimens for a limited period in a smaller tank. A larger tank might be needed for fully-grown specimens.
"Hardiness" indicates how resistant this species is to disease and how well i tolerates bad conditions in general.
Some species doesn't handle transportation very well, but that doesn't mean that the species isn't hardy under the right conditions.
In this case, a "normal" aquarium is a reef aquarium with mixed corals or a fish only aquarium with an approximately salinity of 1.026 (sg) and a temperature close to 26°C.
Species requiring more than a 4000-liter tank are considered not suitable for home aquarium.
Special aquariums may cover tanks with low salinity, sub-tropical temperature, deep sand bed, sea grass etc.
Always reef safe: No sources indicate that this species will harm corals or other invertebrates.
Often reef safe: Only a few aquarists has reported problems keeping this species with corals and other invertebrates.
Reef safe with caution: This species may be a threat to some types of invertebrates.
Reef safe with luck: Most specimens will harm corals and/or other invertebrates, but you might be lucky.
Not reef safe: This species is a threat to most corals and/or other invertebrates.