|Latin name||Coris gaimard - (Quoy & Gaimard, 1824)|
|Local name||African coris|
|Family||Labridae - Coris|
|Origin||Australia, Japan, Indonesia, Central/West Pacific|
|Max length||40 cm (15,7")|
|Minimum volume||1500 cm (396 gal)|
|Suitable for aquarium||Suitable with care|
|Reef safe||Not reef safe|
|Aggressiveness||Might be aggressive towards other species|
Small crustaceans (Krill, mysis, artemia...)
Larger crustaceans (Shrimp, crabs...)
This spicies might be a threat to smaller fishes.
This species sometimes nibbles at clams including Tridacna species.
These fish will hunt crustaceans, sea urchins and worms in an aquarium, very effectively.
This species needs a very large aquarium when fully grown.
Exactly how big the aquarium should be is hard to say, but the size of this species is such, that it cannot normally be kept in a home aquarium.
This species must be fed with an appropriately varied diet.
This species needs a minimum of 2 inch (5 cm) of sand in the aquarium bottom, so it can dig itself down when afraid or needing to sleep.
This species will better acclimatize to the aquarium`s condition if introduced, when young.
Very small individuals can be very delicate.
This species has a habit of rearranging rocks and sand.
Make sure rocks are placed securely on the substrate, so they cannot toppled over.
These fish may well hide themselves for a while, whilst getting acclimatized.
Do not disturb the fish while acclimating because it will prolong the process.
This species revels in swimming and requires an aquarium with ample space.
This species can change gender from female to male.
When a male is needed, a female changes sex and takes on the role.
This species can be used to combat Pyramid snails.
One can of course be unlucky in having an individual that refuses to eat them.
When young these fish are orange with white markings along their back. When fully grown they get a blue/green colour with spots, yellow caudal fin and an orange dorsal fin and head.
Rainbow Wrasses (Coris) grow to a large size and their appearance changes markedly from juvenile to adult.
They dig themselves into the substrate of the tank to sleep or when threatened, so it is necessary to have an appropriate depth of substrate.
2-4 inch (5-10 cm) depending on their size.
One is often tempted to buy them as they are seen as small fish in the store, but they quickly end up being discarded or sold on, as they outgrow most domestic aquaria. When large they are a threat to bivalves, sea urchins, starfish and large crustaceans. When small, they eat Mysis, Artemia or similar foods. The larger ones will also eat small fish if given the chance, so be aware when having small, slow swimming fish.
When the fish get bigger they begin looking for food beneath loose objects which can be very destructive in a reef aquarium if this natural behaviour is not taken into account.
When selecting them, pay particular attention to the area around the mouth to make sure they have not been injured during transit. They must have the opportunity to dig themselves in, even during transportation.
When first introduced they can remain buried in for several days, but will soon appear if not stressed by other fish or the aquarist.
Wrasses are nearly always seen in reef aquaria, since many of the species are both attractive and useful in battling a range of unwanted invertebrates like i.e. flatworms, pyramide snails.
These fish live of everything from zooplankton to large crustaceans, sea urchins and the like.
The needs and behaviour of Wrasses vary greatly, so it is vital to familiarize oneself with the specific species before buying one.
|Distribution||Pacific Ocean: Christmas and Cocos-Keeling Islands in the eastern Indian Ocean to the Society and Tuamoto islands, north to Japan and the Hawaiian Islands, south to Australia. Replaced by <i>Coris cuvieri</i> in the Indian Ocean (Ref. 37816).|
|English common names||
|Danish common names||
Scott W. Michael. 2009. Wrasses and Parrotfishes (Reef Fishes Series Book 5) - TFH Publications / Microcosm Ltd. - (English)
"Minimum volume" indicates the size of the tank needed to house this species under optimal conditions.
This is based on a medium size animal, which you want to keep for several years.
It might be possible to keep smaller specimens for a limited period in a smaller tank. A larger tank might be needed for fully-grown specimens.
"Hardiness" indicates how resistant this species is to disease and how well i tolerates bad conditions in general.
Some species doesn't handle transportation very well, but that doesn't mean that the species isn't hardy under the right conditions.
In this case, a "normal" aquarium is a reef aquarium with mixed corals or a fish only aquarium with an approximately salinity of 1.026 (sg) and a temperature close to 26°C.
Species requiring more than a 4000-liter tank are considered not suitable for home aquarium.
Special aquariums may cover tanks with low salinity, sub-tropical temperature, deep sand bed, sea grass etc.
Always reef safe: No sources indicate that this species will harm corals or other invertebrates.
Often reef safe: Only a few aquarists has reported problems keeping this species with corals and other invertebrates.
Reef safe with caution: This species may be a threat to some types of invertebrates.
Reef safe with luck: Most specimens will harm corals and/or other invertebrates, but you might be lucky.
Not reef safe: This species is a threat to most corals and/or other invertebrates.